Pyramids, bookstore, and exotic food

Teotihuacán - I arrived before 8 am with my guide Ricardo - no traffic, no tourists, and not even the clerks and vendors were around. It was a chilly, clear morning, with a bit of fog from which suddenly erupted a few hot air balloons.  There is so much history in these pyramids, so many civilizations, and mysteries, I don't know where to start telling what touched me, impressed me and marked me! Mysticism floated in the air more than in any other place I've ever seen... My guide was exceptional in teaching me about Mexican history and culture!

I barely made it to the top of the pyramid of the sun  - the tallest, which left me gasping for air, when a stray dog arrived totally chill, no stress, no effort! Utter humiliation. 

Lunch at La Gruta, a restaurant with mariachi in a grotto close to the pyramids.  Exotic food: 

Yes, tortillas with escamoles and guacamole and green sauce - delicate and pleasant. I had no idea I could eat ant larvae with so much ease!  Question: why do avocados taste differently in Mexico? And why do Americans call everything tortilla? The tortilla chips offered at the beginning of the meal are actually called "totopos" 

We stopped on the way back at the Basilicas de Guadalupe- old and new.  The old one is sinking at an alarming rate, has been closed for 20 years, and after huge consolidation efforts, it is now open to visitors.  I could not get over the fact that from the entrance you walk downhill and see cracks in walls and columns everywhere.  

The new basilica is very modern, a bit cold, and it reminded me of a meeting room more than of a church. However, it has been built to accommodate masses of faithful people... 

Afternoon at a fantastic bookstore in Condesa - Libreria Rosario Castellanos - it was quiet, airy and bright! I could sit there for a long time writing.  

I wish they made cafe de olla - the traditional Mexican coffee - but I'm happy with a cappuccino after a very long day.  

Took an Uber to Zocalo, main plaza.  I was very tired but so excited to see and experience more of Mexico City, just couldn't go to the hotel... 

Then got carried away walking all the way back to the hotel on Paseo de la Reforma - check out the change in architecture over these 2-3 km

Two fun facts: 

1. Ricardo explained to me that the symbol for the pesos is S crossed with one line whereas the US dollar has the symbol of S crossed with two lines! This is to rectify my comment about confusing the two symbols.  I simply didn't see the difference. 
2. At Basilica de Guadalupe, a high school student asked if I gave him an interview in English, which was a school project.  I appreciated that schools make an effort to teach kids English as very few people actually speak the language in Mexico. However, the boy seemed lazy and not motivated at all about it... 
3. Only a small part area of Mexico City has always been dry ground. Most of it is built on what used to be a lake surrounding the central island, thus the sinking that affects not only Basilica de Guadalupe but also any other buildings.  
4. Did I say I was mesmerized by color in this city? Check out this picture of houses on one of the city's hills! 
   

1. Today's activity is quite a record - my body feels the pain 
2.