Saturday, August 15, 2015

Day 14 - Glacier Express

To everyone sweating in Southern California, sorry, we wore down jackets today and wandered vertically between about 1600 feet in Chur to over 6000 feet in the Oberal Pass.  We started the day overcast in St Moritz, when we boarded the Glacier Express 
and got off after 8 h in Zermatt, with rain and same temperature.  Thus the down jackets...
Note: I wish I could use a computer to blog and hyperlink to all the places I mention, but with limited Internet access and time to write, it's impossible to do it on the phone.  I'll do this at home, upon arrival. 

The Glacier Express goes through three cantons and hundreds of villages, viaducts and tunnels.  The Alps dominate the landscape so the sky is always smaller than an eye watching over you.  But the panorama train allows everyone to get a perfect view.
I tried to take in everything, because I felt overwhelmed by beauty and emotions.  There were cows, sheep and goats grazing undisturbed, pretty villages with a handful of houses--all embellished with flowers--waterfalls, the Rhine, grass of all shades of green. Cable cars crisscrossed above us, and fog or low clouds reminded us that not much can be hoped meteorologicaly at that altitude.
We admired the chalets made of larchwood with tall granite base to prevent mice from climbing in.  The wood was darkened by sun, but the overall air of order and neatness was reinforced with white window sills and pots of geranium hanging from most windows.

Best things about this train itself were the lack of wifi and the fact that it is powered with green hydro energy.  The worst thing was the outrageous prices for food and drinks!  Beer was cheaper than water ( prices in Swiss Francs, so the water bottle was about $6.5 for half a quart):
In the same time, the water bottle I carried with me on the trip saved my savings account. I filled it with crisp tap water and so when we could, we didn't have to buy the bottled water.  Tap water in Switzerland seems to come straight from a melting glacier!

Unfortunately, the rain prevented me from taking pictures and the same guilty clouds prevented us from seeing THE mighty Mattehorn once arrived in Zermatt. Maybe we get a glimpse of the beast tomorrow, but at least this small ski town that is car-free like Venice is enchanting! Below is a picture of just the train station!
The mini cabs are the only ones allowed in the town. 

Otherwise, we can't have enough berries, which are packed with flavor!
And I discovered this cake that is absolutely divine and I will pay a translator from the Egadine valley to give me the recipe in English!
Final notes for today:
- as much as this country is extremely clean, extremely organized and extremely beautiful (sorry, ran out of adjectives), it's also terribly expensive (a bowl of soup and a chicken tikka masala for $45! Without even water or coffee or other "luxuries! Or $20 at McDonalds for a chicken nuggets and chicken sandwich, again no drinks or extras!)
- "What are you, Swiss?" Resonates with me -something Italians often say. I see their point. The electric plugs are different, the currency is different, their interaction with tourists is different.
- Still, for some reason the Swiss, in their perfect world, haven't figured out how to eliminate the flies. Or maybe in this cheese and milk country, they are simply ignored. As a foreigner though, I fought them on the train, in the nice stores in St Moritz and even in the nicest bakeries... 
But I forgive them! We're having a blast and must recommend the Glacier Express to everyone. And the Alps and... Travel... 

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